We are landing in Amsterdam at noon. Why the hell am I so tired?
The plane floats. My head is exploding. The plane falls. I haven’t slept in days. Our pilots are agile though. They manuever cleverly like frenchmen in bicycle shorts. Or vespas in Milan. Suave. Unfettered. And our 767 dances through the clouds at their whim. Graceful. All the giant Dutch culmulus pursue and embrace us, leaving tears of condensation painted on my window pane as we slip through their grasp. My fingers trace these falling tears, numb against the chilled glass, while a voice in my headphones compounds a familiar sentiment, “If you love her, let her go.”
They do.
And so we emerge beneath the avian canopy, beautiful and slow. Soon landscape gains focus. I can see country roads rising from green pastures to meet us. Still, somehow, my temples throb with pain and defiance. Determined to spoil the occasion. It is only as the wheels of our bohemoth aircraft strike pavement that I once again feel new. Full of energy and suspicion. And a slight contempt. My exhaustion disappears. The steward grabs the cabin microphone to sound off, “Good afternoon” - onboard conversations dampen to a murmer - “It is 7 degrees in Amsterdam,” - everyone is now silent; attentive to his flow - “Please DO NOT move about the cabin until the seatbelt sign has been turned off” - Nobody moves. He owns the crowd now. We are poised at the edge of our seats. Waiting. Holding breaths - “This is KLM signing off.”
A chime blasts throughout the cabin and a mob of passengers explodes from their chairs. Determined. “I MUST be the first to the overhead bins,” scream their faces. Elbows fly. It is imperative to be first in the aisle. To the overhead bins. Everybody knows this. Without this there is no survival. The window seat leaves me neck-deep in inaction. Waiting for Sean and Jon to make a move. My eyes sit at waist level. A thoroughly demeaning position. Finally I stand, but in rising I feel my jean pockets sink under a great weight of responsibility. Removing my hand, one dollar and forty-three cents appears in my palm. The change shines when it catches the light. I am a racoon; fascinated. I hide the treasure again in my pocket. I’ll save responsibility for another day.
We move. Sean is filming the exiting passengers. And Jon is a cowboy. His boots click and clack with each step up the jetway. Crowds stream into the terminal, thicker than water. A pair of Germans enter my field of vision. Prancing and Dancing. They weave through the terminal with long joints that oscillate in unnatural directions. Exploring the space. This is a new sport, and I the judge..my critique emulating from two categories. 1) General lankiness, and 2) creativity. Taller blonde-haired German is the victor. Crooked hat with dimples German must bare the shame of defeat.
I scan left. Men in suits abide on the left. They always do. Business men with briefcases and funny wire-rimmed glasses. To the right are euro hipsters. They mix and mingle and mall walk in a way that is ultimately diplomatic, seeking another hot chai.
We stand inconveniently center, bottlenecking communters, and trying to decide what language is spoken in the Netherlands. I am taking everything in. Bicycles are everywhere. I don’t actually see people riding them. Maybe for decoration? they are everywhere. Streams of humanity rush by us to catch connecting flights to Bahrain or Accra or Mars.
A new thought settles on me. How many of these people see through my disguise? My quiet countenance that hides the stereotype of “just another obnoxious American.” What subtle mannerism gives it away?
I scan for other ex-pats as we hop on the train. Nothing. Any one of these people might be from Portland or Pittsburgh or Prague. Indistinguishable. We all look the same. I am staring at a girl across the traincar, decyphering her nationality when a man with a whistle steps into my line of sight.
WHISTLE MAN: Did you buy tickets?
US: No. Where do you buy tickets?
WHISTLE MAN: Exit the train and search.
US: Will you take dollars?
WHISTLE MAN: No. Exit the train and search.
US: How many dollars is in a Euro?
WHISTLE MAN: Surely someone off the train will tell you.
US: Ok.
I lose focus. My mind wanders,
{
daydream: where is that girl from?
man's whistle: that girl there..[pointing]..?
daydream: yes. the one with the green scarf
man's whistle: [looking]
daydream: no. the other one
man's whistle: her? she is dutch
daydream: oh, ok. thanks
}
We step off the train. My daydream subsides. Still, I am confused. Because without proper resources to judge people for the foreign mannerisms they bring from their foreign countries, I am disarmed. My cultural preconceptions are unable to operate effectively. I need better intuition as to who I am dealing with.
Wait..is this prejudice I am uncovering? Is nationalism a prejudice?
George Orwell once classified Nationalism as “the habit of assuming that human beings can be classified like insects and that whole blocks of millions or tens of millions of people can be confidently labeled as ‘good’ or ‘bad’.”
Damn. I do that. Assign value based on affiliation. At times, in explicit terms. And at others, the judgement is buried somewhere deep in the subconscious. I feel that this experience is loosening my chains of expectation. Limitation. I shake them free.
Some remain.
Jon buys tickets from a machine that only speaks French and we find our place on the platform. There is consensus now among us: 7 degrees Celcius is cold. It requires a jacket. I am unprepared. Fifteen minutes until the next train.
We board. The tracks manuever over one canal and around the next. We exit again in the Red Light district. It is early afternoon.
Still, my thoughts dwell on the fact that cultural bias breeds disunity. And I am suspicious that most of these dividing factors are contrived. Like tension between Hutus and Tutsis in Rwanda, courtesy of the colonial Belgium. Or Sunni and Shi`ite Muslims by the British.
It is easy to loose sight of the fact that at the core we are all the same. A person is a person is a person.
Rounding the corner in mid-thought, a pretty girl makes eyes at me from inside a glass booth with red curtains. I drop my gaze to the cobblestone path, and turn my thoughts away..but from what?!? is it shame for another human being?
“Don’t turn away..breathe deep the stench of death.” Such were the cries of William Wilburforce as he arrived to English Dinner parties aboard pungent slave freighters, illuminating a tragic and subversive reality to the people most familiar only with the fruits of the system.
So I lift my eyes and stare back into hers. There is pain. Captivity. Some untold story standing before me in lingerie. She turns away and our connection is lost. And I keep walking.
Yes, a person is a person is a person. But we need to qualify that. No man is an island.
Our lives are inevitably tangled, intertwined. Is my blessing somehow her curse? is yours? I search passing faces for an answer and continue to navigate the the crooked cobblestone. Our layover is nearly complete